If you're looking for a break this year Laos has it all: crazy locals, beautiful landscape, rock climbing, museums, caving, music, Beer Laos and tubing! All this for a pittance! 

Despite it's tragic past, first under French colonial rule, and later as a dumping ground for US bombs after the Vietnam war, Laos is moving forward. Laotians understand tourists, are incredibly accommodating and lack the (understandable) cynicism of their Thai counter-parts. In recent years the cat is out of the bag when it comes to Laos as each year more and more tourists flock to see what all the fuss is about. 

I recommend flying into Bangkok and taking a flight to Chiang Mai, from here a pit stop at the hippy mecca known as Pi is a must. Drink a few green tea lattes and join a drumming circle before heading to Chiang Rai. One of the best things about Laos is the way you enter the country. It takes two days trudging down the Mekong on a hard wooden bench, but man is it worth it! From your cosy bench you can see locals washing clothes and swimming in what can only be described as east-Asians most sacred river. The landscape is awe inspiring and even though the slow boat has a real party feel, there were times when we lapsed into silence. Luang Prabang is the first city you fall upon, it's incredibly beautiful and has some wonderful temples and markets to explore. It was here I first tried Laotian cuisine, which being honest is not as impressive as a Thai curry. Having that said, a cooking class is cheap and "rustling up a little something you picked up in Laos" makes you look worldly.

Van Vieng is a must for all travelers. It's famous for being a really "happy" town, but there is also a lot for those who like to get up before noon. Rock climbing is the order of the day but I also recommend caving. It's nothing too dramatic but fun nonetheless. Now I come to the phenomenon that put Laos firmly on the tourist trail; tubing dude! This is a messy business, but I cannot stress how much fun it is. Floating down the Mekong with my "bag" of whiskey coke in hand was one of the highlights of my trip to Laos. I feel guilty admitting it, the Buddha Caves were lovely and everything..
From Van Vieng take a trip south to the capital Vientiane. It's a pretty with a colonial flavour, but not ideal for the younger traveler. You can refuel here, gorge on European food and watch the locals. There is  Buddha park worthy of a visit and it makes a nice change from the insanity of Van Vieng.

South of Vientiane lie the four thousand islands or Si Phan Don . A perfect way to end your trip to Laos. I must warn you if you like fast paced action, do not come here! It is one of the most relaxed places I have ever been. Locals doze the day away and service does not come fast. I waited 2 hours for my meal once to find the chief asleep on a pool table! Buying anything is similar, just be honest and leave the money on the counter if the shop attendant is sleeping out back. From Si Phan Don you can cross the border into Cambodia which is the route most take out of Laos. The main thing in Laos is to I was devastated to leave, but an EU passport only gets you a month on Laos fair soil. I took one look back at a sleeping Laotian as I crossed into Cambodia. " On Tuesday the Visa is 10$ more expensive madam", back to the land of the dollar and grind.

Flights from Bangkok to London return average at £320
For a 3 week stay a budget of £200-£250 is advisable

Norma Costello 14/09/09